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Their pages are replete with episodes of the resulting disharmony. Something both trivial and annoying usually intruded to undercut the sublime occasion. No sooner had sightseers marveled at the rays of the evening sun illuminating the Alpine peaks, feeling themselves removed from their earthly existence, than the mundane would interfere to compromise the moment and send it packing. Where now were the vast and the obscure landscapes, and where was that elevated feeling? In Journals 20 Victorians in the Mountains of Excursions in the Alps (1845), William Brockedon was, at first, impressed by the savage grandeur and deep sense of solitude of Mont Blanc until he was greeted by a “fat and filthy landlady” who, “breathing the sweets of eau de vie and garlic,” welcomed him to a place with dirty beds, rickety tables, and rotting food (38).

The Simplon convent. ” (Albert Smith, The Adventures of Mr. Ledbury 3:234). 12 I should note that the satirists generally did not exercise their criticism upon climbers who were going up much higher and taking greater risks. The satirists, rather, reserved their wit for those who only flirted with danger. I should add, though, that even in the minor elevations a person was not completely free of peril. ” As if aware of Burke’s or John Baillie’s theories of the sublime, she added: “Really, sometimes the road was frightful – not that I felt frightened, beyond a pleasant degree, but Mamma was quite unhappy once or twice” (403).

For these tourists, the sublime, as Pope had suggested, was an ideal which tradition had taught them to desire, but had indeed been “perverted by custom” (309). Language unmasked what was increasingly true: that there was a void within the experience of the sublime. The second part of this chapter tracks this phenomenon. Part 2, “Above the Snow Line,” follows the sublime as it begins to lose both its meaning and its abode among the grand mountains. The discussion follows the sublime as it finally surrenders to the indifference of those more interested in power and empire as well as to those more intent on exploring the ordinary life below.

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