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Artaphernes was too late. The order to withdraw, to sail back to Asia, was given. Athens breathed again. Marathon changed everything. It shattered the long-held dread of Persian invincibility, Herodotus wrote, ‘for until that day came, no Greek could hear even the word Persian without terror’. For Aristotle, writing more than a century later, the battle was a defining moment for Greek confidence, the birth-pangs of democracy. Aeschylus was so proud of his participation in the battle that he mentioned it – to the complete exclusion of his literary triumphs – in the epitaph he wrote for himself: 13 i n t ro d uc t i o n This tomb the dust of Aeschylus doth hide, Euphorion’s son and fruitful Gela’s pride.

In fact, the sexual free-for-all – undeniably one of the place’s chief attractions for the younger generation – is not so far from Herodotus, after all. The Histories is vigorous testimony to his boundless fascination with sex. He writes of incestuous sex (father and daughter), divine 33 t u r k ey sex (god and priestess), licentious sex, romantic sex, adulterous sex, comic sex (a king with impotence), animal sex, bestiality (woman and goat) and necrophilia (embalmer and corpse). There’s no end of it.

The concentration of genius within such a short space of time in such a small city is difficult to fathom. Athens was the beacon which attracted the most brilliant minds of the Greek world. 19 i n t ro d uc t i o n J. C. ’ To that list might be added the orator Antiphon, the musician Damon, philosophers Protagoras and Democritus, the paradoxical Zeno, the prizewinning comic poets Cratinus and Crates, Cimon the statesman and admiral, Hippocrates of medical fame . . When you think that some of these great men also had day jobs, that Socrates served in the army, that Sophocles was a senior military official, that Thucydides was a general and Antiphon briefly at the head of the state, you start to appreciate that the gods had blessed this modest little corner of Attica with staggering talent.

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